Notes: You NEED 2, 5.1k pull-down resistors. 1 must go between CC1 <-> GND, 1 must go between CC2 <-> GND. [DO NOT CONNECT THESE TO EACH OTHER IN ANY WAY] (Yes, even though there will be nothing connected to CC1/CC2 you NEED to have these resistors. Simply put, as part of USB Type-C/3.0 requirements these resistors are needed so that devices communicate which is the host and which is pulling even on devices only using 2.0 pins.)
In other words, I highly recommend getting a breakout board with 5.1k resistors already on CC1 and CC2.
HOTGLUE HOTGLUE HOTGLUE
Did you get a good solder to VCC/D+/D-? Hotglue it to protect it from you accidentally ripping the smds/pads. You'll thank yourself for this.
GET A MICROSCOPE! Believe me, I used to solder everything by eye and would hardly ever use a magnifying glass. However, VCC, D+/D- are all EXTREMELY MICROSCOPIC and EASILY TEAR from the SLIGHTEST TOUCH. Don't risk losing a board because of overconfidence. I say this because it happened to me and I had to buy a new board. A decent microscope is ~$60 or less, mine cost $60 and has some extra features. Remember, you only need it to get the job done, so if it has the magnification to see those pads and a light then it'll work. A replacement Vita motherboard will cost you from $30~60 not including the month it will likely take to ship to your doorstep.
Again, don't risk it. It's not worth your time to waste a board. I wish I knew that from the start.
Get some 36 AWG wire if you can, 30 AWG is doable, but is harder to manage and is harder on the solder points.
As far as what's next for me, I'm going to try my hand at adding a USB Type-A port via the 3G/Mini-PCI-E port for flash drives.
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